The sack dress. Fellini’s muse behind La Dolce Vita. Who would have thought that fashion can inspire a
director, and be the basis of a film. The image of Anita Ekberg emerging from Trevi
fountain in a sack dress is one of the most iconic scenes in film history. Cristobal
Balenciaga, the designer behind the sack dress, favored fluid lines that “allowed
him to alter the way clothing related to a woman’s body.” Balenciaga
contributed to the world of la moda (fashion) a “new silhouette for women.” Now
woman of any shape and size can “show-off” their natural curves and look
beautiful.
However, it is more than just a beautiful dress, it also
conveys a meaning. One of the reasons for Fellini was a “poke at the Catholic
Church and a wink at the fashion industry” (Variety.com). According to Jay
Weissberg, a film critic based in Rome, Italy, he says that the dress is “[the]
transparent mesh at the décolletage and the back makes it incredibly sexy and restrained…Roman
women tend to love clothes that create an impression of strength as well as
femininity” (Variety.com). The sack dress in La Dolce Vita sets “a new aesthetic standard and a statement of
liberation from a repressive political regime and a dying culture” (Pasolini). Brunello
Rondi, Fellini's co-screenwriter, explains that "the fashion of women's
sack dresses which possessed that sense of luxurious butterflying out around a
body that might be physically beautiful but not morally so; these sack dresses
struck Fellini because they rendered a woman very gorgeous who could, instead,
be a skeleton of squalor and solitude inside" (Wikipedia).
Marcello moves in a world of conspicuous semi-celebrities and
their “hangers-on”, drifting cheerfully through the high class society and
becoming the norm. The emerging post-war “sweet life” in which Rome is depicted
as a moral wasteland is filled with a directionless self-indulgence. The iconic
scene of Anita Ekberg wading in the Trevi Fountain, acts as a counterpoint to
the empty lives of the characters in later scenes. They all drift into
emotional and moral listlessness. Hence this film is referred to as a
neo-realistic film. Italian director, Pasolini, explains La Dolce Vita as an “exhibition of the Italian pretty bourgeoisie in
its own ambience with exaggerated its traits and which burns it in a revealing
and gloomy light” (Pasolini). This sack
dress embodies this ideology: external and exaggerated beauty, however internal
ugliness. All the characters are all cynics, egotistical, spoiled, silly,
frightened, miserable, etc. However, no one sees that…all they see is beauty
and glamour. A beautiful dress.
It's amazing that one dress could inspire such a revealing movie. Each character is suppose to be such a beautiful person however what is on the outside is not always on the inside. This dress gives us an illusion as to who the woman in it really is. For example Madellena is an heiress that is in love with Marcello, however during the scene where she is decarling it she is kissing and touching another man. This dress was made to make women beautiful however it only gives you an allusion to beauty. These women are not beautiful because they have no personalities they only live to get drunk and party. If anything Emma comes the closest to being beautiful on the inside and out she wants to have a life with children and a nice home. The others just want to party and play with men. There is no real beauty behind the dresses in this movie.
ReplyDeletei like that you use the word drift because that was the most noticeable thing for Marcello (not wearing a dress). His expressions said it all as he was mostly quiet like when his father was in town partying Marcello just looked like he hated everyone around him. But, he's still there and doesn't know how or what can positively change. Welcome to life bro, hence the partying and sexual distractions - not because he liked it (as we saw in his plank-like emotions), but because he needed to forget. As far as the dresses go, well, i don't know shit about fashion, but i could tell that the fanciest looking women had the coldest hearts. If any at all.
ReplyDeleteIm not into fashion at all but I appreciate the art it can create. One dress inspired one of the most iconic films of all time. I agree fully that these characters are blinded by the beauty and glamour of their lifestyle and can't see the ugliness running through their lives. Or at least they are trying to ignore it.
ReplyDeleteAck, Wikipedia! I really like the idea of focusing on the fashion in this film, as it really is central in some ways, and people do it less than you'd think. But the dress that Sylvia wears in the Trevi Fountain is not a sack dress. It's a midcentury Hollywood style evening gown. This is a Balenciaga sack dress: http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1211_sixties/balenciaga_sack_page.htm Picture Maddalena's cool, chic look, not Sylvia's runaway glamour. The Wikipedia entry states that the film was _inspired_ by the sack dress, not that the dress was featured in the film.
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